- Checked fit of removable panel to close the hole in the v-berth above the holding tank. Fits. Finger hole in the correct position. Time to paint the panel.
- Received from Online Metals 316 Stainless Steel 1-1/4" x 3/16" bar stock cut to lengths to be installed as backing plates for the chainplates.
- Succeeded in drilling a 1/8" hole followed by a 1/4" hole in one backing plate. Not easy using a hand held power drill. The drill bit digs in and tries to remove to thick a section of metal at once.
- Removed forward lower chainplates from the boat. Not hard. Just need to remove the shoulder bolts and break the grip of the adhesive.
- Reinserted bolts that were removed back into their original holes in the knees and started their nuts.
- Chainplates were bedded with some fiberous material between the metal and the deck. At the deck, the gap was covered with white adhesive, perhaps 3M 4200.
- Sanded the front and rear surfaces of the hanging knees for the forward lower chainplates using the Ridgid multitool
.
-
- Removed chimney of the Dickenson Marine
Newport Solid Fuel Heater
to see how a 4" AFI Day/Night Plus Vent Stainless - N20704S
solar vent might be fitted.
- The 4" vent required a 4-3/4" hole to accomodate the interior trim ring or a 4-1/2" hole without the trim ring.
- The 3" vent requires 3-3/4" and 3-1/2" holes respectively.
- Chimney base plate is connected to the wood trim ring using four screws
- Chimney base plate sits on a thick build up of silicone.
- Outboard two screws pass through a stack of washers, embedded in the silicone, to form a spacer.
- Wood trim ring is not cut properly. The angle of the deck is considerably steeper than the angle cut into the bottom of the wood trim ring.
Forward Lower Chainplates:
Starboard:
Port:
Chimney:
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