- Yesterday, Sunday July 7th, cut the opening in the starboard coaming for the winch pedestal. Used a 1" diameter hole saw in each corner and connected the corners using a Skil jig saw and half inch thick, four inch wide wood board as a rail or fence to guide the jig saw. Took about three hours, mainly due to measuring and remeasuring and reluctance to cut the coaming. Not pleased with the result. The cuts are rougher than I would prefer, not as straight as I would like, and do not meet the hole saw cuts as exact tangents.
- Drilled thirteen 3/16" holes in the horizontal, outboard, perimeter flange of the pedestal about 5/16" from the outside edge.
- Used the spring loaded center punch, and pencil, to mark the deck for drilling holes to match the holes in the flange.
- Mildly countersunk the holes in the deck.
- Placed a circlet of butyl tape on one side of a #10 washer and placed the washer butyl tape side down on the deck. The washers should force the buytl into the countersink while raising the flange slighly off the deck to allow water to drain out from under the pedestal.
- Screwed 1-1/4" long #10-24 machine screws with #10 washers through the flange and into the deck.
- Secured the pedestal to the deck with #10-24 machine screws with fender washers and nylok nuts.
- Drilled four holes, about 1-1/2" from each end and spaced about 4" apart through the coaming into the inboard vertical flange of the pedestal.
- Secured the pedestal to the coaming with #10-24 machine screws and #14 washers on the outside and #10 washers and nylok nuts on the inside, matching the existing pedestals.
Remaining tasks
- Install port pedestal.
- Move existing Lewmar Ocean 30 two-speed self-tailing winches from existing pedestals to forward pedestals.
- Perhaps, disassemble and paint the inside of the pedestals with Pre-Kote to protect the epoxy from UV exposure.